Scalare102079

lrood, look into next month's one day conference... marine breeders initiative. mbisite.org. you will be pleased to see the very same two gentlemen will be speaking just north of detroit!

I have a 30" deep system... next time I am going wide and no deeper than 24"..

Where are you getting your lanthanum chloride?

drain/fill... drain/fill... repeat. There are some rumors going about of marco rock growing nuisance algaes like crazy... premium has a couple of identical tanks in their office to see if this is a common problem. one tank is marco, the other is from their cured vats. I have been dropping marco into my system every time I take anemones in to PA. *just swapping about the same weight* and I haven't seen any ill effects.. but then again it is usually only 15 lbs or so at a time.

sounds good to me.

I thought Phosguard was aluminum oxide?

I think INVERT and I are also looking to group buy from reefcleaners

Probably a Polyclad, they usually prey on snails and other mollusks. Find yourself some velvet nudibranchs, or definitely look into the few Halichoeres sp. wrasses that will hunt them out.. melanurus would be a good choice... they are voracious predators. H. chrysus or biocellatus may work too. Some folks are using yellowtail damsels as well.

I am not a huge fan of carbon personally. But if you do end up using it, best to use small amounts for just a couple days and then remove it. It will definitely help remove organics and medications from the water and in a hurry.

Hey Invert, If you can wait a couple weeks, I can jump in and do an order with you. would like to try a few more things from him.

you need to borrow someone's D.O. meter. Also, try to open up your house about 6:30 in the evening and observe the tank while windows/doors are open... see if you observe any different behaviors. From what I am gathering based on what you are typing... it just sounds like a CO2/O2 imbalance. Temperature, salinity, photoperiod can all be factors.. but that is tank specific... if you house is locked up tight all day, then you come home, the ambient air quality drops... and of course, your tank follows suit. If things are healthy and behavior well all day.. something changes late in the day.... and you see the behaviors... is it after a feed every time? ORP/pH drop could be a reason. maybe your lights are on just too long? Longer photoperiods can be problematic. There is a pattern.. we just have to observe it.

just out of curiosity... why the airstones to the return section of the sump? just more air exchange down there? Does the main pump have the ability to pull the air bubbles in? If you are worried about D.O. then drop the airlines in the display and observe... are you having severe temperature fluctuations with your lights being on late into the day/evening? Do you have a newer constructed home and keep the windows/doors shut?

What are your phosphate readings?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WC16DU/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_i1 this kit should work for you.

could also be test kits giving false positives. Either way, best bet is to continue small, daily water changes. Do nothing drastic. Just slurp from the water column and be careful with you are pouring the new water in, so that you do not disturb the sand bed.

Airgas (on Hanna by Premium Aquatics!) and Indiana Oxygen (west side and northeast side) for CO2 tank refills

if you run a small business, you can set up an account at service pipe downtown. they have any and all plumbing fixtures/tools/etc.

I think he is meaning what we call in my world a "howdy" or a temporary confinement that still allows full water movement, and allows future tankmates to come close to one another without touching! just imagine a box made of eggcrate with a top (no jumping allowed!). usually one can be made on the cheap with plastic mesh and cable ties. add a piece of pvc tubing to hide in. either clamp it to the side or ziptie armaflex to float it.

For those whom haven't been directly involved with the swaps, $1000 is solely gained on COUNTLESS hours the board and a handful of helpers to get this all together. 2 events a year for this small group of hard working, dedicated folk would be asking wayyyy too much of their spare time. It isn't like they are being paid to put on this show... it is a labor of love! And again, next year we have $1000 more to work towards bigger and better! A lot of you weren't at the very start of this club... very few have stuck around the many years... and this organization has come a VERY long way. Sure, we aren't ready to host a MACNA yet, but we are doing very well.

http://premiumaquatics.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PA&Product_Code=L-RRC&Category_Code= 40 or more lbs 2.19/lb

You can also save some money by going with dry base rock rather than all live rock. just buy a couple of choice pieces of live to seed your base.

the deeper the tank, the more difficult to get your PAR up on the substrate. wider is better in my book.

WOW. this is an OLDIE

I have been using I.O. for a few years now. I mix 150 gallons at a time, get it to temperature, and test/dose to get my levels where I want before doing my water changes. using 1" hose and a couple of pumps, I can do the water change in 40 minutes. I feed the hell out of my tank, so I am usually doing a minimum two water changes a month, if not more.

I should add that the rimless is a 100 gallon (36x36x18") and the other is a modified turtle habitat (48x24x26").