jlfalin Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 I am currently talking to AGE now for additional quotes. They are recommending a stainless steel/glass hybrid for me. I am awaiting my qoute for the tank. The rapid response times from them have been great. I know starfire glass is soft. For people that have that glass would you say it is just as easy as acrylic to scratch. I have read conflicting reviews. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 No way would it be easier to scratch than acrylic. It's a degree softer due to the lower iron amounts but it's still glass! Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbellm Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 Mine is Starfire on the front and sides I haven't had a problem yet with scratching and I have had my tank for 3 years. Just make sure you don'y have sand in your cleaning products. I use a Tunze care Mag for cleaning the glass. (I also take mine out after use and place it on a foam box under my cabinet to prevent build up of unwanted animals on the working surface Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlfalin Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Ok so moving forward. Going with AGE stainless steel and glass hybrid. Starphire front. Size will likely be 84x36x30. My problem now is overflow. Dustin recommended a coast to coast which with AGE would require 7" of in take space. If I do that I would likely bump the tank to 40 deep to split the difference. I also considered 2x ghost overflows or just doing two regular overflows. Any suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Can't seem to find a picture but when I was referencing coast to coast was meaning the box would be on back and teeth would not be on wall. Don't have much time to look but found this, same concept but this is small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlfalin Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 AGE will not do external overflow boxes on their glass tanks. Said too many failures and they don't feel it's safe. Therefore for c to c they make a false wall the whole length of the tank and drill the bottom PVC. My other option is a regular overflow with an small extension across the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 Bummer, there aesthetics are the best with that option! I would just go with the option that's least intrusive to the main tank. Also, are you planning on any closed loops? Just starting to get to the place where the number of drains you'll want. Sent from my Galaxy Note 7 using Tapatalk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlfalin Posted August 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 The internal coast to coast is the best look by far for the AGE options. It has the same look as a full external c to c but that put it in the tank. Basically I will have a 7" compartment running the full length of the aquarium that is the overflow. I will also put my closed loop intakes in there to keep them hidden. No I am trying to convince my wife that I need this tank. I went over what I wanted to spend by about $2500 because of some tank changes and I figured why not but one of their stands. The rep from AGE is out of town for 2 weeks so hopefully I will have everything finalized by then and pull the trigger. As for a closed loop. I planned on putting the intakes in the overflow compartment and then just doing over the top returns via sea swirl and the flexible returns. Does anyone recommend drilling additional holes in the bottom of the tank for closed loop returns? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 I did not drill the bottom due to risk of a broken bulkhead/seal/etc. If they break then you are left with one option. DRAIN YOUR TANK. I don't love the aestethics of mine but if bulkhead had to be fixed I'd just have to drain water about 8-10 inches. My overflow is rather slow considering the area and that it just feeds my middle closed loop/overflow but if you have a lot of flow you could run into bubble issues depending on where the closed loop is sucking in on your overflow box. If you've got enough depth in overflow should not be problem and can put elbow on and pull from the very bottom of overflow box. Just rambling now but glad I persuaded you to go the more expensive route:) Bad thing is your wife knows where I live! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlfalin Posted August 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 Good point about not drilling the bottom in the main part of the tank. Guess I'll avoid that now. As for the overflow it will be the full depth of the tank and the whole length so I shouldn't have to worry about bubbles. The back overflow section will be ~50 gallons. Although that is a lot to drain if a bulkhead cracks its not too bad. Overall the coast to coast will give me good asthetics and good surface skimming. Yeah my wife is pretty pissed right now about my quote. Just over 8k for the tank, stand, delivery, and setup. And Dustin she know's that I got this large tank idea by seeing yours. I would be very afraid 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Msr224 Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 Wait till she finds out that the tank isn't the "expensive" part. BTW, she doesn't know where I live. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlfalin Posted September 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 Ok so finally decided on the tank. Signing the papers today, should get the tank in early November. The tank will be made by AGE and installed by The Fish Gallary Size: 490g, 84"x45"x30" glass/stainless steel hybrid with PVC bottom, starphire front and 3/4" glass. -Coast to coast overflow -40" steel stand powder coated They are going to deliver, set up, and level the tank for me. I just get to concentrate on the fun stuff 😀 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Awesome, now what's next. Let's get to the fun stuff! I love designing tanks and have learned a lot about what I like and don't like on my tank. I'm currently working on an overhaul on my tank by the end of the year to reconfigure my whole backend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Nice I like the dimensions. And the thought of someone delivering and leveling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatO Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Agreed, I like there products but they are just to salty imo, it will hurt them in the long run. They need to be in the 400-500 range and eventually will be forced into that range. Not to dig up the past. But I missed this. I'm on the fence about the price. Personally I wouldn't spend that much for lights, but I don't think they are overpriced by any means. 700-900-1000 whatever. These days people are paying $150-450 for a 3/4" frag and $1200 for a mushroom with pimples on it. Quality tanks for 3000-5000.. I mean thats nuts. The light is what makes all your coral live, it is THE thing that needs to be good. That being said you can have cheap lights and they still work. But I can see why people would spend that much money if you are dropping $10k on a tank, stand and sump, what's another 2k for lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlfalin Posted September 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 What's next? That's a great question. I have so many things to plan and have a short time to get started. The pressing matter right now is flow. I am trying to decide on number and location of bulkheads. I was going to do 3x 2" schedule 80 bulkheads for the overflow. With the coast to coast I was going to see how much flow it can handle. I was thinking of doing two closed loops with the intake in the overflow area. The big question is if I can't put the intake in the overflow. Would anyone here drill the bottom of the tank in the main tank. I wanted to do returns blowing from the front bottom toward the rock work. My big issue is bulkheads in the bottom of the main tank are a potential point of failure with no good way to repair without draining the tank. Input would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbellm Posted September 8, 2016 Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Bulkheads on the bottom? My stand point is if you cant trust something with a failure use a back up or don't use them. Look at all the great tanks out there and if you would be happy with them and they don't have a high risk situation then why would you take the risk? I have 2 return lines coming from the bottom of the tank. but they are also inside of a top to bottom overfow box, I am a little neurotic, and no joke I literally stop all my flow every month or so and make sure the overflow box is not overflowing. I have had 3 reeftanks tanks now 2 of which had returns drilled on the bottom of the tank, but each also had an overflow box protecting them, no problems yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted September 8, 2016 Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Closed loops with bottom drilled are very common though in large tanks. With SCH 80 bulkheads I'd feel much safer doing this but you just can't beat the flow patterns and varied flow from the closed loop. Detritus build up on the bottom of my tank would be much worse without the flow projected from the bottom of my tank. In a 180 or less I'd say they are not worth it but once you get into the large tank arena most of the standard rules start to get really muddy! I'd say figure out a way to make closed loop work whether you have holes in bottom or drill top of tank and have pipe run that's not noticeable behind rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlfalin Posted September 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 So how would you drill the holes for the closed loop. I would do two 1.5-2" supplies (1 for each pump). how would you do the return lines. Multiple 1" holes in the bottom or one big one and split it in the tank. I will likely also return one over the top through sea swirls. Please give advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted September 8, 2016 Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Don't forget an emergency drain in case flow gets restricted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted September 8, 2016 Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 So how would you drill the holes for the closed loop. I would do two 1.5-2" supplies (1 for each pump). how would you do the return lines. Multiple 1" holes in the bottom or one big one and split it in the tank. I will likely also return one over the top through sea swirls. Please give advice. Drilled on back wall and down pipe. Painted mine with plasti dip so it blended in with back and was hidden behind rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlfalin Posted September 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Good thought. Split the supply line and do two for every one closed loop to prevent problems. I plan on using the new apex. That should let me know if there is an issue by alarming that the power draw has changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlfalin Posted September 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Thanks for the example that helps. I wish I could do a high bulkhead on the side and then over the top it. Less points of failure. AGE seems to like drilling the PVC and not the glass. Since I upgraded to 3/4" glass maybe they will revisit that idea. Hey Dustin so you have one supply for each pump orndonyou have two suction ports per pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlfalin Posted September 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 Oh and what size is the plumbing under the sand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted September 9, 2016 Report Share Posted September 9, 2016 I've got one drain for each closed loop on back wall so a total of three. . The pipe is 1.5" and then the pipe buried is 1"with 3/4" loc-line. Programming on Apex alternates every thirty minutes. Clockwise, counter clockwise, and then all at once. Sent from my Galaxy Note 7 using Tapatalk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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