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jlfalin last won the day on April 27 2018

jlfalin had the most liked content!

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    475G Reef

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  1. Do a search for flatworm exit and these nudi’s. I have used it before and it works great. I did daily dips in 1-2 drops per gallon. Was able to get rid of them in a few weeks with no recurrence.
  2. The chemi clean worked wonders and killed all my cyano. Which looking back is not a good thing. Now dino’s have moved in. I have been siphoning every day through a filter sock to try to remove as many as possible hoping they run out of fuel and die out. I have been doing some research and I think I am going to try an idea. Metronidazole has been shown to slow/stop reproduction in addition to inhibit it’s ability to group together. I am going to use this to my advantage. I plan on treating with metronidazole at 10mg/gallon and then running a uv sterilizer to kill the Dino’s. I will then work on increasing biodiversity in the tank to try to prevent a recurrence. I may even throw a black out period in as well to help. Wish me lunch Dino’s are a pain.
  3. Well after 48h not happy with the results. I decided to take a risk and I added another full dose to the tank without first adding carbon or doing a water change to remove the first. We will see if this finishes it off. No matter what happens I will do a water change in 48h and run both carbon ans gfo to remove the stuff. Really hoping this works. If not back to the labor intensive turkey baster and siphon.
  4. Good to hear. I was going to miss the 48h mark for the water change It was going to be closer to 72h. Decided to use chemi clean to try to speed this part of the initial maturing phase.
  5. Well I'm building a light rail. The features will allow it to pull out into the fish room for maintenance. I will also be able to raise and lower the height of the lights using a winch. I was able to mount the first part to the ceiling today. Not as much as I wanted to get done but not bad. Hopefully I will have my radions over the tank by the weekend. I will probably make a light rack build thread separate from this one. So far it looks like it's going to be awesome.
  6. Well at the 12h mark there was little to no change. Now the cyano is starting to shrink and get stringy and flake off the rock and sand. Looks like it’s going to work. So far no negative effects that I can notice.
  7. So I have been battling cyano for a while now. I think the main issue is flow which is in the process of being upgraded. I currently have 3 fish so the bioload is very small. My nitrates test at 0 and my phosphates are 0-0.03. I have heard many good things about chemi clean and red cyano Rx so I got some chemi clean this evening to see if it lived up to the hype. I treated my 500g volume this evening (5/5/18 @ 8:30). I will continue to provide regular updates so people know if the product works well. Here are some pictures from tonight.
  8. Since I only had enough loc line to finish one manifold in the tank I figured I would move on to another project until I got enough material to finish the flow upgrade. Attached is a picture of my next project. I just started but zi figured I would post a teaser picture. Does anyone have any ideas? I should get a large chunk of the project done tomorrow so stay tuned for updates.
  9. On to flow upgrade. I have a closed loop with 2" intake and 4x 1.25" output on an oceans motion flow diverted. It gives nice random flow but I wasn't happy with how the flow was dispersed and my control of where it went. I decided to upgrade the stick pvc with 45' on the end. For the change I bought a 1.5" to 4x 1" pvc manifold, I then added a reducer to a 3/4" pvc threads and then put loc line on. This gives me the ability to direct the flow where I want. I may block one off because even when my rd230 is on full the flow isn't what I want for sps I don't think. Overall very pleased with the upgrade. Now I need more loc line.
  10. You would surprised how much the top will move without proper support. Since your front window will be bonded to that you want to make sure it is well supported. I don’t think just pushing the tank up to a 2x6 wall will be enough to prevent the bow. I would add some kind of top brace after you get the glass in place and epoxy that well. Overall looks great though. Excited to see how this progresses for you.
  11. The pictures look great. What do you plan on doing for the top of the tank?
  12. Also, I didn't mention but the PVC is color coded. If I am out of town, a tank sitter can tell me what color pipe is leaking and I can help problem shoot the issue. The 2 green pipes are the main drains. Of course the one with the gate valve is the full siphon pipe and the other is the trickle pipe. The black is the emergency pipe. That way a person could quickly identify if there was a problem with the overflow/return system. Additionally, my closed loop on the oceans motion is red pvc and the other closed loop will be orange or purple. The return pump will be blue and the pump for my frag tanks and manifold will likely be yellow. This hopefully will make it very easy to identify where the problem is and isolate it quickly to prevent major issues. I also plan on having water sensors everywhere to alert in the case of a leak. The apex will be on battery backup and my internet router and switch will also be on battery backup. This way I will always know if there is an issue with my tank.
  13. That was my thought as well. If the fuge or sump ever spring a leak I can throw a pump and heater in my overflow and shut those valves and I have a stand alone system. That would be removing 300ish gallons of water volume from the system but in the case of an emergency it could save the tank. This is my one time build of my dream tank so I want to keep it as safe as possible and have as many safety features as I can to try to prevent catastrophe.
  14. I got all of the colored PVC from bulk reef supply. The grey schedule 40 fittings came from usplastic. The ball valves were added because I was initially running my tank independently while it cycled and I finished painting stands and getting the fuge ready for water. I didn’t want the water to overflow if the power went off so I added the valves. Additionallly, I wanted the ability to isolate my aquarium if I need to. Those valves will let me isolate the tank from the system. By throwing a pump in the overflow section of my tank it can be ran independently. My overflow section holds around 80 gallons of water so it acts as a sump whem needed.
  15. Finally finished plumbing the overflow to the refugium. The first green pipe is the main siphon on the Bean style overflow. The middle green pipe will be the trickle drain. The black pipe is the emergency overflow. Next is mixing saltwater in the fuge and then plumb a temporary return. More pictures to come.
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