bratfink Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Hi Again, So, the tank seems to be doing ok. I have a couple of questions that have arisen from the testing results we have been getting for the last few weeks. Here is the latest readout: Amonia = 0ppm Nitrite = 0ppm Nitrate = 0ppm Phosphates = 0ppm Calcium = 380mg/l Iodide/Iodine = 0.015mg/l pH = 8.2 Salinity = 35ppt Temp = 79.3F The tank is officially a FOWLR, but in reality we are aiming to have more inverts than fish, maybe even an urchin (if we pass our own test of managing to maintain water quality). There has been little evidence of any cycle in the 8 - 9 weeks the tank has been running. But I am now getting a bit of what appears to be diatoms spreading around the live rock and on the sand. The Bio Load is currently: 3 Blue/Green Chromis 12 Hermit Crabs (thought they were all red, turns out we have a combination of blue, red and at least 1 that is green!) 12 Astrea snails 1 Fire shirmp Obviously the iodide/iodine is low as is the calcium. Calcium is pretty straight forward, we have an additive, we add some a bit at a time. However the iodine is really low (0.06mg/l is advisable?), I have a bottle of api eco marine iodine that I was given by a friend, but the adding instructions are less than clear. So how do I go about bringing the level back up without hurting anyone? I was also given a bottle of API Strontium, I have no test for this, should I even bother adding this? Infact whilst I am at it; my test kits are API also, are they a good enough test kit, could it be that the reason I haven't seen an ammonia, nitrite and nitrate spike is because the test kit is wrong? Any guidance is greatly apprciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Msr224 Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 IME the strontium is about like chasing a moving target. There is a lot of speculation that the strontium is tied directly to coloration of corals which I personally beilieve....however testing for it is difficult to say the least and the salifert tests are thebest IMHO. If you use a good salt mix and do regular WC then you shouldn't have too many issues. I add reef fuel by aquavitro but that pretty mush it. I started testing for strontium but its a hard test and even the salifert test states this. The test kit instructions say that it's like searching for an offi white marble in 1000's of white marbles... Focus on the big three and then add a booster is the plan that I am sticking to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Scott, willing to try this out with as much love you've been giving it lately. I need something to help with the coral coloration and curious what your dosing? Full dosage? Twice a week or are you dosing with a pump?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdebord Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Be careful with the iodine addtions if you have shrimp. Iodine is involoved in the regulation of their molting process. With too much iodine, you can force the shimps to molt too often, which will over stress them and lead to their demise. JMTC & GL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratfink Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 So how much do I want to add? Surely I don't want to add enough to raise it from 0.015 to 0.06 in one go? I was aware of the shrimp molting issue, so I want make sure I only add what is required to keep the tank healthy and not over do it. Or do I just not add any at all and consider 0.015 enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Msr224 Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Scott, willing to try this out with as much love you've been giving it lately. I need something to help with the coral coloration and curious what your dosing? Full dosage? Twice a week or are you dosing with a pump?! I dose it twice a week since the Frag swap. I don't "know" that its helped per see but it hasn't hurt anything. I dose it manually. I'm not always regular on it either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Just thought I'd point this article out....Marc does a great explanation on all the basic water params and outlines test kits that I'd mainly agree on. I've since moved away from Salifert on my phophate/alkalinity and use the Hanna Checkers as nothing beats the accuracy of there digital readouts. (ULR Phosphorous meter <HI-736> and not the normal one <HI-713>) Calcium Checker has not been proven and is inaccurate. Maintaining Good Water Quality Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Just thought I'd point this article out....Marc does a great explanation on all the basic water params and outlines test kits that I'd mainly agree on. I've since moved away from Salifert on my phophate/alkalinity and use the Hanna Checkers as nothing beats the accuracy of there digital readouts. (ULR Phosphorous meter <HI-736> and not the normal one <HI-713>) Calcium Checker has not been proven and is inaccurate. Maintaining Good Water Quality Dustin, have you purchased the Hanna Calcium checker or have you just read the reviews? I have been tempted the past few weeks to buy one and try the alternate method of testing that a user on reefcentral came up with and shared on the Hanna forum. According to the person it gives a more accurate and consistent reading versus the standard Hanna method that require an exact .1 ml measurement. I keep hoping I'll come across a cheap used checker, but I might have to break down and pick up a new one from PA just to give it a try. Alternate Method Originally Posted by klondike4001 Modified Hanna Ca Checker Procedure 1. Add 1.0 mL of sample water to Cuvette A of the sample cuvettes using the syringe with the green plunger. 2. Use the dropper to fill cuvette A to the 10 mL mark with deionized water. Replace the cap and invert the cuvette 3-5 times to mix and set to the side. 3. Turn the meter on by pressing the button, all segments will be displayed. When the display shows “Add”, “C1” with “Press” blinking, the meter is ready. 4. Add 1 mL of Reagent A to cuvette B using the syringe with the white plunger. Use the dropper to add 8 mL of deionized water to the cuvette. Replace the cap and invert 3-5 times to mix. 5. Place cuvette B into the meter, close the lid and press the button. When the display shows “Add”, “C2” with “Press” blinking the meter is zeroed. 6. Remove the cuvette from the meter and unscrew the cap. Fill the syringe with the green plunger to the 1 mL mark with sample from cuvette A and discard what remains in the Cuvette. Add the 1mL from cuvette A to cuvette B. 7. Add 1 packet of Reagent B to the cuvette B. Replace the cap and shake vigorously for 15 seconds or until the powder is completely dissolved. Allow air bubbles to dissipate for 15 seconds before taking a reading. 8. Place cuvette B back into the meter and close the lid. Press the button. The meter displays calcium concentration in ppm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Interesting new method. I'm still not sure I'll pull the trigger on one but to get rid of a titration test would be nice:) Here's a good review of the Iron and Calcium Hanna Checkers. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/4/review Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratfink Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Thanks for the input. Another dumb question; do Hermit crabs molt? The green one looked like he was struggling to get out of his shell the other day, he appears to have given up now. But on the whole he's pretty lethargic compared to the other species of Hermit crab that I have, he stays pretty much in the same area and doesn't seem to forage as much as the other types. Is this a species trait? Or do I have a sick crab? I had looked at my low iodine and seen that iodine was linked to invert molting and wondered if the low iodine was in some way hindering the green hermit. Green is only a descriptor for this guy, I have no idea what species he is. He kinka looks like a zebra hermit crab but doesn't have stripy legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhwimmers Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 I think they do molt, but it is not very common. Its also hard to tell if they molted or died, unless you have just one of them I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.