KnighthawKz

I went to Menards and bought a tee and some nipples and a couple of ball valves and longer mounting screws to make it work. I turned 1 canister around so both inputs were in the middle and put the tee there. Reuse the John Guest Elbow from the input for the new output. Had to move both canister out to fit tee in middle so only using 2 screws per canister to hold them on to top bracket. Also had to put a washer on each screw in between the top bracket and canisters too add spacing for the taller tee.

I use the BRS one and just modified it and split the inlet so both are hooked up to pump and put valves on the 2 outlet sides to regulate flow

Last week I order some GFO off of Amazon as it was only $11.99 per pound(For 3lbs + shipping I paid $42.11) Order on a Friday and received it a week later on Friday so Ok shipping. It was packed in 1 shipping box that has 3 individual 1 lbs. boxes inside with the GFO in zip lock bags. Measured a 1 lbs. pack and got a little less then 4 cups. Bag stated it was PhosSorbent GFO by Coral See. And that 1 lbs in 90 gallon tank last about 4 weeks. (BRS calculator show that 1 lbs. should last about 8 weeks) Got to add to my tank to see how well it works and how long it last.

THANKS!!! My main concern was putting a 90° in front of the pump. It's a Iwaki which are more of a pusher than a sucker and was worried about the flow into the pump.

I was planning on installing a external return pump on my sump and was wondering if there some type of formula to calculate the flow loss if you installed a 90° fitting in the return line. With the sump I have on my 90 gallon there is not enough room to run the pump straight out of the sump(was trying to rum from sump to union valve to pump). Would the pump even run right with a 90°in front of it? Thought of using a 45° but still would not have the room. THANKS

I used Top-it-Off Kit Deluxe(from PA $49.99) + AQUA LIFTER VACUUM PUMP(from PA $15.75) + 8 gallon pet food storage container(bought at Sam's around $10.00) = around $82 with tax. Them sensor would be nice if they were a little cheaper.

That what I was looking for. THANKS!!

Was wondering if anyone uses a pad under their external sump pump. Was getting ready to install one in a cabinet with a plywood flooring and was wondering if I should put something under the pump to help quite it down a little. I read about using a mouse pad under a pump but to me they don't seem thick enough and was wondering if I should use some type of thick rubber pad. And if so where would you buy such a pad. Looked around Menards for something but never found anything. THANKS

Was not thinking of it to use valve for flow control(was just going to run pump full open).Was mainly thinking I could shut valve off for maintenance and not drain sump. Did not figure I needed one on outlet side as water drains down below inlets in display tank when pump is off(Guess to would save the water in the line from draining back) THANKS for the help.

I decided to switch over from an internal pump to a Iwaki MD55RLT. My sump has been predrilled with a 1 inch bulkhead that I glued a cap in so I could use the sump with internal pump. Was going to use schedule 40 pipe & fittings as that was what I been using with my internal pump. (That OK is it not?) Question 1) Was looking on PA site and wondering if I should just get just a 1" bulkhead or get the kit with the strainer. My internal pump does not have a strainer so is there a need to use one on an external pump?(Kits only $0.20 more so I'll get but should I use it?) Question 2) Was going to put a ball valve in front of pump and was wondering if the DURA 1" True Union Ball Valve sold at PA were good to use? Question 3) What's the name of the part that screws onto the pump inlet and outlet called? Pump description states it's a 1" MPT inlet and outlet Thanks for any help as this is first time at plumbing pump outside of sump

Anyone use the GFO from Amazon? It's on $11.99 per lbs. Heard that most Granular Ferric Oxide is the same so how can they have this low of price. Sounds to good to be true

DANG!!! you sell out?

Was looking around at buying some GFO and was wondering where's the best place to get it. I usually just get it from PA but was checking prices at other places and seen that Bulk Reef Supply sales a "High Capacity" GFO they say it's removes twice the phosphate as standard GFO but at a higher price.

Bought one of the "Flippers" after reading thru this post and it works great on coraline algae. Blade is not razor sharp but has some what of a blunt edge that takes the algae off but does not cut thru the silicone in corners. The in tank piece is larger than the outside one so you can see where you are scraping. Magnet is fairly strong(better than Mag float) but not strong enough that you cannot get it apart. The scrubber side is not as aggressive as the Mag float but it works good at cleaning the glass. Got mine from Drs. Foster & Smith http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3728+3764+25977&pcatid=25977 for $39.99 but I used one of the $20 off coupons from the swap is got it for $19.99. If you spend $50 before discounts you get free shipping.

Got to reading around and it seem a higher pressure is better. Adjusted it up to 80psi just to see how it goes. THANKS Willy

The one Premium Aquatics was out of them last week and the ones they just got in this week were only 98% stated on side of membrane.

On the SpectraSelect TFC 90gpd Membrane page it said "Membranes produce rated GPD ± 10% at 60 psi." and the original Air,water,& ice membrane it stated " produce up 150 gallon per day using 65 psi water pressure" so that's just where I set it. Should it be higher?

Just got the email from them on it. 2 days after buying a new 98% rejection one. Oh well I'm happy with the one I got ,getting 2-3tds thur it.

PA got the SpectraSelect TFC 90gpd back instock and exchanged the 100 GPD, no questions asked. Installed new one and flushed it now getting a 2-3tds reading out of ro and 0 out of Di. Thanks PA and all that helped!

The membrane stated "Average NaCl Rejection: 98%" http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/H2O-BW-PA-2012-100.html%20)]http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/H2O-BW-PA-2012-100.html and the Permeate Flow @ 60 PSI: 100 GPD. The membrane PA sold me is an ULTRATEK brand. Went to ULTRATEK webpage(had to use google translater...not a good sign)and it stated a "Stable Rejection Rate 95% with a Minimum Rejection Rate 93.0%. Mine coming out around 92% brand new. Ran around 4-6 gallons thur it so far(ran for about 1 1/2 hours)and still getting high readings. Do you think turning up the water pressure would help any? Or should I just return the membrane and get a different one. EDIT: I pulled the membrane out and its not the one displayed on PA website it was a DOW Filmtec tw30-1812-100 that they sold me. You were right Reefer82, It was rated at Rejection Rate 90.0% which is close to what I'm getting. Going to take it back.

Today I replaced all filters on my Typhoon III Extreme 150(from Air, Water,& Ice) My setup starts with a 5 Micron In line sediment filter going to booster pump (set at 65psi) Them to the RO/DI unit that has a 1 micron sediment filter(from BFS)in first cartridge. Next to a catalytic GAC(BFS-183 Catalytic GAC from BFS)in refillable cartridge. 3rd filter is a 0.5micron carbon block(from BFS) and then up to a 100 GPD Permeate Flow membrane( from PA(was going to get SpectraSelect TFC 90gpd but they were out of them)) with a inline Flow Restrictor for 100 GPD RO(from PA). Then out to last chamber that has regular DI resin(from PA)in refillable cartridge. I first flushed the catalytic GAC for about 5-8 minutes(put 1 micron sediment filter in and catalytic GAC cartridge on and flush out where 3 cartridge should have been. Then I put on the 0.5micron carbon block, membrane, and DI resin cartridges. I flushed the RO unit for about 30-40 minutes and them measured the TDS that was 32ppm coming out of just RO unit. My tap was going in was 416ppm. Should I flush it longer to try to get a lower reading? I read that I should be getting a reading in single digits. Have not even started working with the DI side yet till I get a lower RO reading. I used the meter on the unit as well as a handheld one and was getting same reading on both. Could it be a bad membrane or the flow restrictor(has arrow on it pointing to flow so it's facing right way)

Been messing around with my RO/DI unit this week and was looking on-line at BFS and seen a permeate pump and was wondering if anyone uses one. I have a 3 gallon storage tank on my unit that holds RO water and was wondering if it would be worth getting one of these pumps It states: 1) it saves up to 80% of the wastewater(which overtime would pay for itself on city water cost). 2)higher delivery pressures (was wondering how it did this. I have a booster pump at start of RO/DI unit) 3)faster water production (guess because of less backpressure on membrane) 4)superior water quality (guess because of less backpressure on membrane also) 5)extended filter/membrane life( everyone could use this) 6)non-electric ( so no cost after purchase ) Anyone use one or know of a negative reason not to use one if it does all that it states it does.

WOOW!! order on Thursday and received it on Friday. That's so quick packing and shipping. Just what I ordered and needed. THANKS!!!

Yep.. I was thinking wrong on rejection rate(was thinking how much water went down drain) THANKS I ordered the BFS-379 Filter Kit - Chloramine Special RODI from you yesterday which should help with the membrane and Flow Restrictor recommended by Dustin THANKS TO ALL FOR THE HELP

how do you go about finding the rejection rate? You have a flow meter on the water inlet and one on the drain line?