jesterisdead Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 I currently dont have a sump and dont want to add anymore tubes off the back of my tank. I'm curious if I could attach a GFO reactor (one I got from you Dustin) on the input or output of the cannister filter and run them in series? I think the cannister filter has plenty of horsepower to pull water thru the reactor or push it thru. Thoughts? I also dont want to put another pump or overflow in my tank as I already have one with the HOB skimmer. I must just scrap the whole cannister and put this in http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/TS-RUBY30S.html but didn't want to buy a sump as I plan on convertering my present 55 to one when I get a larger tank. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 I'd say the output of the canister. You might have to throttle it back if it's got too much flow but after the canister the water should be cleaner and free of debri which can easily junk up the media in reactors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesterisdead Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Well looks like a weekend project for me then. I'm sure it will help and I know what the problem is with the brown window algae as well. I've been feeding too much and with the bio load (fish and coral) didn't have enough cleanup crew. I snagged some from local lfs to get it stated and see if it helps and have already seen a reduction so placed an order with reefcleaners for larger crew. I also think the GFO will help as besides bio load my diamond goby continues his tunneling and is moving a lot of sand around. He is doing what I got him for but its a daily chore keeping up with him and moving his dunes away. So my sand is really being churned and adding to my phosphate levels which I still need to check tonight. I've noticed my brown button corals are turning white which some say is normal and others say isnt so I'm working on watching them right now and think this GFO will help with that plus water clarity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Your best solution for water clarity is good skimming and GAC. As far as the GFO, don't use too much too quick. If you drop phosphates too fast it can cause zooxanthellae bail out (You'll lose coral color!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesterisdead Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 My skimmer is acting up. I previously had to empty it every other day. Now its not filling up at all. The pump was noisy and I thought that it had stopped. I got a new pump and its still acting up. Its foaming just not a lot like before. I cleaned the tube a few weeks ago but I may need to figure out the jets and scrub that. What's GAC? Thanks for info on phosphate. I haven't checked it yet but plan on testing tonight everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 What's GAC? It's Granular Activated Carbon. Main purpose in our tanks is to take away any smell and makes the water clear. A step more advanced on clarity is ozone but that has to be coupled with a really good skimmer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesterisdead Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 So I should run carbon in that reactor then and not the gfo...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 I'd go with GFO instead of carbon and get that skimmer running consistently. Some run both medias in a reactor but don't agree with that as you want the GFO to be fluidized, not GAC because it will end up crumbling and leaving black dust in your tank which is not aesthetically pleasing and bad for your inhabitants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scalare102079 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 I am not a huge fan of carbon personally. But if you do end up using it, best to use small amounts for just a couple days and then remove it. It will definitely help remove organics and medications from the water and in a hurry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invert Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 I think your canister should push through the reactor. I'd definitely put it on the output side of the canister. I think I'd be concerned about getting too much flow through the reactor. Everything I've read is that gfo reactors require lower flow. I have a separate pump for my reactors, but I also have a 40g sump. When my macro algae's start growing crazy I know my nitrates and po4 is getting up. I will run gfo (I alternate between phosban and phosguard) when po4 hits 0.5. I wait for the aquarium to get that distinctive smell, then run GAC until the smell is gone, generally a few days to a week. I keep the flow low when I run carbon, so the carbon doesn't churn. Most of the time I run just the sump and skimmer. How is that for testing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Remember, all the named brands (Phosban, Phosguard, Rowaphos) are just GFO. Don't pay for the fancy packaging. Also, assume you meant .05 ppm on po4 and not .5? IMO, ideal rate for mixed is around .03-.05 ppm and if you only have SPS, the closer to zero you can go the better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invert Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 sorry yes, .05. I really mean the difference in chemicals that is the base of gfo, iron or aluminum. Phosban is iron and Phosguard is aluminum. The problem I have is when I drive po4 and nitrates closer to zero, my algae quits growing. Maybe that's not a problem. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 sorry yes, .05. I really mean the difference in chemicals that is the base of gfo, iron or aluminum. Phosban is iron and Phosguard is aluminum. The problem I have is when I drive po4 and nitrates closer to zero, my algae quits growing. Maybe that's not a problem. ;-) I would not consider that a problem! The more the phosphates, the slower your stoney corals will take to grow as phosphates inhibit growth big time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scalare102079 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 I thought Phosguard was aluminum oxide? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefer82 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Phosguard is aluminum based. I have no idea what it is exactly but it mentions the aluminum on their site and being safe. I've used it for years, only learned of GFO's existence last fall and I still had a couple liters of phosguard here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 I was mistaken, never realized that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
invert Posted June 16, 2013 Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 I get a little paranoid when it comes to introducing various chemical additives/solutions as it pertains to long term accumulation of metals in a closed system. That is the basis as to why I alternate their use and try to use them a few days to a week before my next water change. I figure this way I can limit the downside or accumulation of metals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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