Guff

Work has taken a toll on my large 300g tank and feels like it’s time to at least downsize. Debating on possibly just going to a rimless frag tank with the small clowns, etc. Never had success wiht the corals so trying frag tank setup would be interesting. that would mean selling/trading/donating my 300G AGE tank and 160ish sump with all the associated equipment. Thoughts on this process from others that have done it?

Yeah, I'm just going to put the blue throat in a 5g bucket with a hang on back filter that is being seeded in one of hte treatment tanks currently. Once she finishes then I'll add to one of the others to ride out the last of the fallow period. So i've read the fallow should be anywhere between 75-90 days, is there a definitive timeline or just go with the max 90 days?

All is still going well, knock on wood. Everyone else seems to be happy and acting normaly and eating aggressively. Only issue is verifying the copper level, both my API and chemetrics test kits show above one somewhere below 2. I dosed the recommended mL based on tank size, so afraid to do anything more than that with everyone doing so well....but do want to make sure that if any are/were carriers that the parasite is killed. Plan on trying to catch the blue throat female this week, she's gone about a week without food so probalby getting pretty hungry and hopefully enter the trap.

I was able to get them all into my 75g and 40g tanks, lost the tennetti and achilles 3 days in to the copper treatment. AND someone the blue throat trigger managed to hide in the tank so still have to catch her to let the main tank go fallow. Everyone else so far seems to be doing very well and unaffected by the copper.

Sorry for the late replies I got pulled out of town for work unfortunately. Wife has been watching and so far everyone is still acting normally but the achillies still has the spots. So at this poing assuming it has to be ich and not velvet or the tank would be gone by now. Hope to be back home tonight or tormorrow morning and figure out from there what I'm going to do.

So got bit again, last 2 fish to go in and get an ich outbreak. So is the best place to get a rubbermaid stock tank or similar at the tractor supply store? Guessing I might need at least 2 100g to hold the stock I have assuming they dont crash before I can figure this out. I have 8-10" achilles, dussemeir, and tennetti tangs along with 3 yellows, 3 vostros, blue jaw trigger, 3 snow flake clowns, blue eye cole, sailfin, orange shoulder fowleri. Thus the need for a lot of space to try to keep and treat. The Achilles and Fowleri are the ones that have presented and they were the ones added about a week ago after QT. GO FIGURE. Both were fat and happy with no signs....so what are the options for getting something big enough to support that amount of livestock. What can I do for setting up filtration to support it all? At this point I think I have to almost hope they can fight it off and live with it long enough for me to get something frankenstiend to try to take care of it. Any ideas suggested are welcome. Ideally would like to do either tank transfer method or find some one that has a source for Chloroquine Phosphate. Just prefer not to deal with copper if I can avoid it.

Do you have to have tickets before your arrive or do you just look up member names to a registry?

Yeah was planning on mp40 times 4originally but this was too sweet to pass up. I thought i remembered reefcresr working best on my 120g setup.

Hello everyone long time no talk on my part, sorry for that work has been a bit hectic. So to my question I got lucky and purchased 2 brand new MP60's QD for $700!!! Yeah no kidding. So for flow on my tank will 2 MP60s cut it or should I supplement wiht maybe 2 MP40's as well? Right now I have the MP60's on opposite ends of the tank one running reef crest the other running "pink mode" (sorry forget that mode lol). They are currently not synced either. So any recs on which mode, sync or no sync, more flow, etc. Thanks!

That many fish in a 55g will be difficult, better get an ammonia badge to monitor, you may end up causing more stress by pulling them all and putting them all in such a small tank. If you do water changes you'll lose your dosage for ich treatment, might do better with CP treatment as it would be less stressful. I've got a couple different versions of that here, as well as cupramine and test kit that I never used. Was going to use CP since it seemed less stressful than copper and wouldn't contaminate my QT setup. Though I can't say for certain that CP is good for all the fish you have... Tank transfer would be better, if you could run 2 to 4 of those continuously from stage to stage to have them ich free by the time you got to the QT tank and then you could do water changes to keep ammonia down if it became an issue. Just throwing ideas out there...not had ich, but did have velvet nuke my tank about a year ago and lost 40 fish. So research the crap out of quarantine procedures and medications and stocked up lol.

No expert here, but I do know that if one has it then they all are likely infected so all would need to be treated. From what I've read that a lot of the times if they are not stressed and acting normal then ride it out, others will tell you to immediately pull them and do treatment. Hopefully some of the more experienced guys will chime in.

One of mine died in quarantine the other one I couldn't find the other day so they haven't made it to the display tank yet.

I do have a refugium in the sump with a decent size chunk of cheato currently. So your saying to feed the fish heavy and stop water changes and that's helped you in the past? Got a link handy for the thread by chance?

I'll be honest I haven't checked my levels in quite awhile, so I will have to test to verify. However before I only had a medium tang and one small wrasse in the whole system which is a 300g display with a ~150g sump, so when I tested nutrients always tested as zero. I did do some water change but found that my litermeter was not replacing as much fresh salt water as it was removing and the salinity dropped to 1.018. So I shut it down and added salt to bring the level back up while it was fallow. I now have a DOS and started changing 3g per day, for around 21g a week, could probably up that for a bit to help if needed. I have since added in the original fish, but have added 2 yellow tangs, 3 black ice clowns, dussimier tang, and a pair of blue throat triggers in 2 separate batches over the last 8-10 weeks. So I will need to test to see where I'm at now after adding the new bio load. The tank is in the basement, but there is a small 3'x1' window above the tank that could get a couple hours of light in the late evening when the sun is setting. So if this is Dino, any other recs to combat or approaches now that I have livestock back in the tank. It acted like Dino to me but what I was seeing in the tank did not look anything like the pics I had seen online and descriptions of being slimy and green, etc. Luckily I only have a torch coral, some schrooms, and star polyps so I could probably pull those and put in the 40g to cover the tank and start over again. I also have a biopellet reactor I plan on bringing online to help with the heavier bioload since I plan to have a heavy stock list...

So I thought I had this licked, ran tank fallow cleaned everything out, scrubbed the rock and ran fallow for 10 weeks with no lights for 2-3 weeks in 2 different stretches of 10 days, ran carbon and peroxide thinking I had a dino problem. So noticed today at the bottom of my bare bottom that some was coming back, it doesn't look like algae to me has a spongey think consistency and tonight I noticed small air bubbles on the top. Hopefully the pics are clear enough to get some good opinions.