plantguy

For a clean crack, solvent will work best. https://www.amazon.com/Weld-Acrylic-Plastic-Cement-Applicator/dp/B0149IG548/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1520795741&sr=1-2&keywords=weldon+3 For more jagged breaks, a thicker type like 16 works well, but the repair is pretty ugly. https://www.amazon.com/IPS-Weld-Acrylic-Plastic-Cement/dp/B0149IFA9O

Highly doubtful the concrete is flat and true enough, you'll most likely need to build something. During the building process, you will also need to flip the assembly as you go, eventually flipping the entire assembled tank a couple times for gluing, routering and finishing. For the tank itself, that size with top bracing you will need 1.25" material. Rimless, you're looking at 2" material. Drop the height down to 24, and you can use .944" material, which is cheaper, and easier to get locally.

What are your final dimensions? Ive built about 150 acrylic tanks. Hardest part will be a surface to build on, unless you already have a 10'+ flat work surface to work with.

Personally, I would return both lines to the sump, and run a separate pump, or manifold off the main pump to feed the refugium. Two reasons, the first is you will be able to tailor the flow in the refugium instead of being stuck at whatever comes through the drain. Second reason is every time I see a drain fed fuge, its full of detritus, they tend to become settling chambers.

Do we have a vendor list yet?

Anyone in the club have a AI wireless controller or Neptune AWM laying around? My wireless controller died, and of course its no longer available, and I was never smart enough to grab one of the AWMs before they stopped making them.

Which model do you have? The 24" I usually run an Iwaki 40RX. Beckets love pressure, I would bet you aren't getting enough from spitting off the return pump. The pipe leading from the beckett chamber to the other pipe is done more as a muffler to quiet the venturi noise from the beckett.

Gotta love an easy fix, even if it makes absolutely no sense.

Try a different power cord to the power supply, I had a similar problem with a PC4 and some vertex lights. I switched the power cord from an extra computer I had, and it worked fine, and the vertex power cable worked fine to power the computer. Can't explain it, but it solved the problem.

Yep, fishless cycling on the QT first. I also like to add some larger diameter PCV pipe for hides, and add a light on the same schedule they are on. I usually also run Prime every other day for the first 4 weeks to bind any ammonia that pops up while the biofilter matures.

The stars have aligned, and Ill be able to make it, along with my Jr. Aquascaper.

Its a newer product, but I know a few of the people involved, and its been going around the FW side of the hobby for a bit with good results. Mainly with feeding smaller fish/shrimp, and raising daphnia, moina and brineshrimp.

Its mainly asphalt, large systems probably wouldn't see issues, but smaller tanks might. FlexSeal Tape MDS

They will usually seal back up on their own with detritus, but to get them to seal up quicker, I have used Magic Lube II in the past. Its also what I use on o-rings, its non-toxic, and won't break down any plastics unlike some of the petroleum based lubes. Magic Lube II

For hand polishing, Novus works best. For machine polishing (Buffer/Drill) the 3m polishing compounds work much quicker. The 3M headlight restoration/renewal kits work great, if you have deep scratches, and are under $20 for everything you'll need other than a drill. Just use lots of water with the sanding disks. Usually all I need to use from the kit is the 800 disks, and the Trizact foam pad prior to buffing to remove most scratches.