Jump to content

Saveafishreef

Registered
  • Posts

    79
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

Everything posted by Saveafishreef

  1. Ive never been to a meet, so, do i bring food for the masses or drinks???
  2. Did you have a electrical spike. It dont have to be from a storm either. If you had a big surge, its possible it messed with some things electrical. 180g yes it takes time to cool down like that. That's a lot of volume holding heat. Even with out heaters your adding heat by pumps and water friction.
  3. Hang on refugee and an a over tank over flow. Im planning on being there.
  4. I got pumps, timers, heaters. T8 lights with 420 old school actinic bulbs. New bulbs
  5. Ive used them as well. Ive always ran touchy skimmers. It keeps them from going stale when I need to put hands in the water. There will always be an ohh crud I need to get that or move this. Wont have time to go wash your hands like you should. It keeps contaminates out.
  6. One I love your workshop. Neat and your table saw set up. That rocks. I want to thank you for posting the outside air box you made I ran mine outside and was trying to think how to filter the inlet pipe. One other thing what is that on your wet/dry vac? What it set up like that?
  7. Update. I redid the hanging brackets.
  8. Amazing job. Maybe in a few month i can beg you to help me on one.
  9. The port and all the gizmos put in a MH.
  10. Now for th MH. After talking to a guy, yes I know a guy. After some geeky electrical things that was done to a pile of gizmos. This controller works on MH ballast and dims down to 50% or on apex 35% Boomb baby dimmable MH. Not switchable wattage. Real dimmable. Whoop.
  11. Right up th road from you. He also has other big things. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2683745
  12. Rule of thumb. If its grassy and green it needs IRON.
  13. Here is a new look on fragging that has been done for years. Ill hit the rewind button a bit many many years ago there was a few places I worked with, few might remember them. Etropicals, Flying fish express, and G.A.R.T.H. The goal back than, was when you fragged it to get as much growth on it as fast as possible to flip it in the sales. Over time that shifted when it was free market to collect out of wild harvest. Now with CITIES closing up, this long forgotten methods has been. Well forgotten.. Here we go, I'm letting things out of the bag that will blow the thinking on fragging out of the water. Lights. Do NOT hang above the tank. Water reflects light at 1.33 or about 2% on every degree. In other words on a 40watt SO bulb you loose about 30% through reflection. OUCH thats a lot. Lights on the side of the tank gives a radiant penetration value about .16 you loose about 2% of light. The back of the tank has a Mylar reflective. Like the shinny plastic pre-inflated balloons. Now you use way less light to get the same par. Color K This is a two step processing endeavor. I agree its not pretty but you'll get faster growth in the 6500K than in that pretty blue. This is the first light the frags are put in till size is reached. After you get it to the growth you want you'll need to blue it. This means hitting all the pretty blues you like. This will shift the color of the corals back to the intense colors thay have. Cutting the sucker up. 1"X1" pieces is the worst you can do. Area is what grows on a new frag. Coast line as you might say. If I cut it into a crescent moon shape say 1/2" wide 2" long vs 1"X1" I get more area that will be growing. 1"X1" = 4" growing coastline. 1/2" X 2" crescent shape = 5 3/4" coastline I am hoping this will raise thoughts and hummmm's Who ever has the club par meter try this. 10g tank put light above like you would normal. Par it. Than shove light up on side and par it again and you will see the true numbers.
  14. I have ran a QT 24/7 when I did water changes out of the main DT that water went into the QT as a water change. That way some bacteria is still in there but it gets a water change as well. As filters a bio 350 from marineland works well and lights. Room light is fine unless corals ar in there. I do keep my QT tanks real dim when fish are added. Less stress on them. Once you add meds. You'll wipe out the bio load in most cases. But using your DT water to add as a water change does a few things. Keeps the prems close to your DT, saves on water changes and adds some bio with every water change. Just remember ALL water out of your QT is trash water and keep every thing you stick in that water separate. Any thing that comes in contact with the QT as the plague.....
  15. I bet I went to the car wash 5 times and spent 25$ learning that lesson.
  16. hung up. Though I might redo the hangers. Dog chain is just temp.
  17. I want fully custom and a hybird. I used 1"X1" angel aluminum. Cut to length drilled holes and used a pop rivets. I did find out to paint aluminum you need self etching aluminum primer.. self etching being the key words here. Other wise paint peals off like a egg on a non stick pan. The center 3 slots are for MH I will be going with the 315 CMH You can do a search on it. It holds a tighter spectrum for 2-3 times longer. That means every 2-3 yrs befor a color shift as to where Normally MH start at 6-9mo. Plus dimmable. And more controllable. The ballast ill be using is growers choice. With a lil work is APEX controllable dimmable down YEAAAAAA The long slots on the side will be for LEDs I'll be going dsuny for them or reef bright.
  18. I have some sort of rewards I just noticed. Are these traded in for corals?????????
  19. Its thick and dries fast to where its sticky and hard to make a smooth brush strokes.. Thin it and do several coats over 3-4 days. Once you got the thinning down you'll love using it.
  20. I'd love a nice 18" chunk of one. Say 16" x 18"
  21. + 1 on rustoleum. If you get it in the can to brush it on THIN it down....
  22. 11 channel Dolby Atmos receiver OMG mine is a 5.2 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...