Mike762

Hi guys. Looking for a little feedback here, I’m currently dialing in the lights over my new 6’ 180 which is about 3 weeks into its cycle. The lights consist of a 61” aquatic life t5 hybrid running 2 each of the Ati aqua blue special And blue plus bulbs. Leds are 4 ai prime hds, and their blue channels are currently set to max out at 50%. My goal here is a mixed reef with an emphasis on the LPS, and and a handful of idiot-proof SPS. Therefore I’m not really looking for par ranges higher than what I’m currently at. This is my first time with T5, and I am very accustomed to the smooth ramping of Leds. I’ve tried to set up my schedule to phase the t5s in and out as gently as possible, by staggering their on/off times. I figure this will also give me a longer photoperiod while only running each bulb for so many hours per day, and will sort of simulate the sun arcing overhead from East to west, casting shadows on opposite sides of the rock at different times of day, and only being at full blast right at midday. I’m going to upload a photo of the sketch I made to represent what’s going on. Hopefully it’s easy to interpret. Par ranges are wide, as they represent different spots at that depth where corals will grow. Most sand bed is to the East and most tall rock structures to the west. my questions to all of you would be: -How long is it ideal to sustain your maximum power during a photoperiod? Should my peak power period be longer? Currently full blast is only drawn at 2 hours (but I don’t need those high par ranges for the types of corals I’m envisioning). -Does my idea of nearly constantly fluctuating Par readings suck, or would it more closely resemble nature? -If you run similar equipment on similar livestock types, what do you do to avoid light shock and keep the transitions subtle? Thanks for any expertise!

Well, the plumbing is done. I decided to do what was best for the pump and keep those return lines as direct as possible. I’ll be diverting additional pump power through the manifold to power reactors, so I wanted to conserve as many gph as possible for display turn-over. The bends in the drain lines also served to align them with the hole in the floor.

One other thing to consider is that all of these lines have to go through a 4x12 hole in the floor, and they all will have to bend a little. So it’s really a question of whether each group would have one set of bends or two. I suppose that if I used more braided vinyl and less hard pvc This wouldn’t be an issue. I just wanted to avoid as much vinyl as possible.

Hello, I am in need of the opinions of some experienced tank builders. I am currently working on connecting my new display tank on the main floor to my sump in the basement. The drain and return lines all want to inhabit the area that is roughly 1”-2” from the back surface of the tank and Stand, but that means that they will intersect. So either the drains or the return will have to have a series of 45 degree elbows that will divert them around the space inhabited by the other. My question is this: Is it better to bend the drain lines and risk more trickling noise (avoiding noise is a very high priority for me), or bend the return line(s) and risk adding more head pressure loss?

Postponing the swap???!!! Guys... this isn’t the Catalina wine mixer, this is the FRAG SWAP! hear me out... set up a QT in the parking lot and load the breezeway with UV sterilizers. Game on! lol

I can scrounge up 5 frags

I’ll do raffle security and whatever else, if needed, on Saturday. Medium shirt

I’ll be there

Sorry for the late rsvp! Haha see you in a few

I’ll be there, bringing a dessert and participating in the exchange.

I’ll be there, sorry for the late rsvp

I’ll be there

I will be there. I plan to break up my sour apple birds nest colony and bring most of it, will also have trumpets, GSP, and possibly a few odds and ends.

I plan to attend! Open to carpooling ideas as well.

I’m in.