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Indychiro21

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About Indychiro21

  • Birthday 08/24/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Noblesville, IN
  • Interests
    Packers. Fish. Beer. Golf.
  • Tank
    75G Reef and 250G FOWLR

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  1. How would you go about sterilizing your equipment that could possibly be infected? I was thinking of a vinegar soak would possibly do the trick but wasn't sure if there was something better. (nets, vac, etc) While going fallow, do you still do water changes? If so, how do you go about not infecting the water a week or two later with the vac you just used?
  2. Interesting... That would explain the 3 fish over the 1.5-2 years who keep surviving and really showing no symptoms. Copper in the DT is/has been my last resort. I think I will try to catch the wrasse and put him in a QT while leaving the tank fallow one more time. I really appreciate the advice! This has been by far the most difficult disease I have dealt with.
  3. Thats what I thought originally as well (that it was velvet) It did make me wonder though since it has not wiped out my whole tank... Also I have had a purple tang and a lionfish live through this a few times over... they were the original "carriers" (not currently in the tank anymore) They would break out with all of the symptoms and all the other fish would die off.... then they would recover. It wasn't until I broke down the tank, caught them, and put them into a QT that they died. (my error) Others in this reef community as well as other reef communities have said that velvet will kill all the fish really quickly and will essentially spare none. All my fish are typically living around 2-4 months in the tank... eventually get all the said symptoms and then die. (with exception of the purple tang, lionfish, and now this wrasse) Good call on the cross contamination... I could be guilty of that as far as reusing water change device etc... which would then make that fallow period not so fallow... hmmm Still thinking velvet? If so, what worked for you for the DT? Another 90 days of fallow and catching this wrasse and treating with Cu? I also saw a video of the LAfishguy on youtube where he treats all his FOWLR with copper... sounds crazy but he does have his own tank cleaning business etc... so I wasn't sure. Why not dose the display tank with Cu? Especially if you have to keep dosing a QT to maintain the levels of Cu.... wouldn't it just go away eventually with water changes and carbon? Grasping at straws here....
  4. Sorry I haven't updated in awhile... Tried a freshwater bath but catching sick fish in a 250 gallon is not exactly easy. Dipped them and I really did not see anything fall off of them or at the bottom of the bucket. (also never seen a fluke before so who knows) 3 of the 4 ended up dying that night and I found them the following day. RIP. Since then I have the wrasse left and I have ran prazi for a couple weeks just in case flukes are a main issue. The wrasse is doing fine, swimming about the tank, eating everything.... He is still flashing quite a bit so at this point I think I can rule flukes out. The wrasse has never shown any fin spots or cloudiness of eyes or anything like some of the others. He does exhibit the flashing and yawning every now and again. This (disease) has been plaguing my tank for about a year and a half now.... Not sure if I just need to do a whole system reset or what. Advice/ thoughts?
  5. I appreciate the help! I purchased and dosed with prazipro initially as I thought it could have been flukes as well, but symptoms only got worse after dosing prazipro as it probably stressed them out a bit. Since then I did a 60 gallon water change and started dosing paraguard everyday. Things are definitely improving, but I know this is not a long term solution. Update: Naso's black spots by his gills have disappeared for the most part and I have not seen him shake... yet. (black spots which I assume is black ich appeared by both of his gills after writing my initial post) Queen Angel's cloudy eye is faintly still present but I would say a 70% reduction in the cloudiness Wrasse I have not seen flash on anything... yet. Powder Blue is still looking a bit rough as he has some white spots (5 or so), but his slime coat doesn't appear to be sloughing off as it was before.... not sure if that's really what was going on but thats what it looked like. Everyone is still eating everything.
  6. Hey guys I have been battling a parasite for literally over a year and a half in my FOWLR system (350 gallon system) I thought I had it beat and then some major aggression seems to have exposed what I thought was a good to go tank Here is whats been going on... I introduced some fish (about a year and a half ago) and one was sick with what appeared to be ich or possibly marine velvet. (did not have any signs of this prior to introduction into the tank and the fish was way too large to QT) Anyways, fast forward to that point where I literally lost all my livestock... Annularis, Majestic, Purple Tang, Lionfish Afterwards I had my tank go fallow for 90 days with nothing but an abalone crawling around in there with the pods eating algae. I slowly started to introduce fish and everything was good until about 3 months after the introduction of the first fish did everything get sick again.... Lost all that livestock Annularis, Emperor, Purple Tang, mated pair of saddleback clowns, and a couple of heniochus. Afterwards I did a huge water change (40%) and then waited another 90 days while continuing to do my normal water changes and regular husbandry That brings us to this past February when I started introducing only QT'd fish... starting with a Lunare wrasse... I waited for 1 month and he has been perfect... I introduced the second fish being a QT's Naso tang and left it alone for another 3 weeks or so... everything was fine.... I introduced a QT'd powder blue tang... waited another 3-4 weeks and he has been perfectly fine... I then introduced a QT'd queen angel and the powder blue was not happy about this and went a little crazy... lots of fighting for a couple days. Now all fish (especially the powder blue) look sick and its the same thing that I have had every. other. time. QT process was the fish were kept in cupramine with the recommended sustained levels for 2 weeks prior to introduction into the display. Symptoms this time are: Wrasse - flashing only Powder blue - cloudy fins and developing what appears to be slime coat sloughing off ( not white spots) Naso - fin rot and shakes a bit like he is itchy Queen - parks herself in front of the power head and moves around every once and a great while like she is itchy... also has a bit of a cloudy eye developing on one side. I would appreciate any/ all advice... I have never had a tank in my 20 years of keeping fish do something like this... Hopefully Trump has another one of those MOABs that he could direct solely at my aquarium because I am at my wits end.
  7. Gorgi, did you have those with coral in the tank as well or was it a macro specific tank?
  8. Thats what I was thinking and some of the macro's (people have said) keep themselves in check... Just have to prune them time to time. I was looking at Blue ball ochtodes and red titan as possible things to put into the tank
  9. Does anyone intentionally put macroalgae in their display tanks? I have been looking at blue ball ochtodes and it looks pretty sweet, but I have always thought keeping algae out of the display was kind of a main goal. If you have not googled macroalgae display tank, its worth a google. Curious on other people's thoughts, pros, and cons.
  10. Yeah I tried the whole... top right, bottom left flow and indirect so its hitting the length sides of the glass first and then ultimately bouncing off the end piece of glass etc. Even with this, the flow seems to push hard against corals like acan's and trumpets to where their skeleton is shown through the tissue... I hope this makes sense? haha Will they basically act like this until they get used to it? I have tried multiple powerhead options and can't seem to get the perfect amount... Then again I could always move some corals around slightly too, but trying other things besides this first.
  11. I live in Westfield and I am willing to help as well... I have actually moved some pretty large tanks (across multiple states) quite a few times What I did in the past and worked for me right or wrong: Drained the tank and kept most of the water by putting the water into 5 gallon jugs (with a cap) when I did this I used water jugs from uncle bills and even 5 gallon buckets from Lowes and just secured the tops on them extremely well. Put all the livestock in 5 gallon containers with a lid and they did just fine (even to Iowa which is 5 hours away) I also saved my substrate when I did this... (This was years ago when I had a crushed coral substrate) but I did clean it out very well once I made it to my destination. I had a few guys help lift the tank and put in our trailer (which looks like a small horse trailer) we put set it on big sheets of Styrofoam to absorb any sort of bounce or shock to the glass. Made it to our location and reversed the process.
  12. Thanks for the clarification and the detailed info. I shall start the 25 gallon/ week changes this weekend and see what happens over the next few weeks. Thanks for the input!
  13. That's what I was initially thinking with getting a wave maker.... randomized flow with changing the setting its on I really need to achieve two things with my flow: Decrease dead spots Not wreck my LPS tissue with blasts of flow hmm.... I appreciate the input guys!
  14. Yes sir... its the 75 gallon. I have not had anything die (yet) but maybe thats what is happening to some of the zoa's causing a climb in the nitrate? Not sure. So what you are saying is... you changed a total of 25 gallons per week in your system or per month? 20 Saturday and 5 Wednesday? I figured that 10 gallons per week would get the job done, but it doesn't seem to be the case. Also, I changed around some rock work which obviously releases some detrius into the water... Could that increase my nitrates for a short stint as well? Checked nitrates read about 20 Had to rearrange rocks and did 10 gallon water change Checked nitrates this week and they read about 20
  15. Tested my levels daily since this post and all my levels are stable but nitrates are still reading high... Even after my most recent water change. Mg: 1320 Ca: 460 dKh: 7.7 SG: 1.026 Ph: 8.2 Nitrate: 20 ppm I usually do 10-15% water changes weekly. What amount would you suggest I start with to get those back under control? I.e. what percentage of a water change would be safe to not fluctuate the Mg, Ca, Alk levels greatly but also still decrease nitrates significantly? I was thinking either 10% changes 2-3x per week to get on top of things or possibly a 30% change weekly until levels are stable. After all the testing this last week... I agree I think nitrates would be the culprit since nothing else has really changed too much.
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