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solor

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Posts posted by solor

  1. Most of what I have read says to keep Alk between 7 and 11. If you have an ULNS reef then maybe even 6. Personally, I shoot for middle group to compensate for testing variances (mine or the kits) and aim for 9 but don't sweat 8 or 10 at all. If you wanted to lower your Alk, all you have to is unplug the reactor for a few hours up to a day or so, depending on usage, and then adjust your Calcium level back to 420, or wherever you keep it, with Calcium Chloride or the Calcium part of 2 part supplements.

     

    This link is extremely informative http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry

  2. I didn't expect this much trouble either. I finally got my ph balanced within .02 sway for three days and alk climbed to 15 dkh. So slowed the effluent way down and had to adjust the bubble size and BPM down to compensate for the lower pH that happens. Now have it turned off and waiting for alk to drop back down to something like 10 dkh and hope it maintains that level when it gets turned back on. I test the Alk every morning and night also. Good luck

  3. Set your apex to shut off the reg at something below what you want like 6.3. Set bubble size to 12 or something high then set your bubble per minute at 10. Wait an hour or two until it stables at 7.5 pH or whatever, then adjust the bubbles per minute down to say 8 or 9. See where that gets you then start fine tuning from there a little at a time on bubble size or BPM.

    • Like 1
  4. Are you sure that you are at bubbles-per-second? The dial is set-up as bubbles-per-minute.

     

    I finally got my CaRx stabilized between 6.45 and 6.47 but it took me weeks and a little help from the forum here (Thanks PatO and Plantguy by the way).

     

    For comparison sake, I have a Korallin C-1502, Carbondoser regulator, and maxijet 400 as a feed pump. I run my effluent at a pretty fast rate as well, quite possibly at the 2 drops per second speed. Low pressure side is set at 12 psi, and is running 6 bubbles-per-minute.

     

    FWIW, with the bubble size/pressure at 12 psi it seems to break up into smaller bubbles that appear to be about 1 bubble-per-second by the time it reaches the bubble counter on the reactor. I also set my controller to shut off at 6.35, because, I did not want the constant on off cycling on the outlet or doser and have an email alarm set-up when it happens.

    • Like 1
  5. Thanks, I ran the denitrator with gravity feed, worth trying again as a CaRx. Read that about Korallin and not liking pressure in a RC thread also...forgot about that.

     

    "Keep effluent at about the speed you have it. Monitor alk daily.(calcium follows alk, so no need to test it. If you start even, if alk is low you know cal is low) If it's going down, just lower the ph some on the apex... Lower both numbers .1. A small amount is a big difference. If you see yourself down to about 6.5 or so, that means you need to up your effluent and start over."

     

    "The concept is, the more the effluent, the higher your ph can be and have the same effect. The lower your effluent, your ph has to be low to make the effluent strong enough to keep up with demand. There is a point of no return where your media will turn to mush, which you want to avoid. That's why you up the effluent and raise ph and keep testing alk."

     

    That makes a lot of sense and will definitely prove to be a helpful reference.

  6. Equip:

     

    Korallin S-1502 reactor converted over to C-1502

    Currently fed by a Maxi-jet 400 (considering getting a masterflex pump...)

    Tropic Eden large grain media

    CarbonDoser from AquariumPlants.com

    120 gl tank, 40 gl sump, and 40 gl refugium/frag tank

    (will be plumbing in a 135 gl folwr in a few months)

     

    Settings:

     

    Steady drip (much more and it would be a stream)

    6 seconds per bubble

    6 psi

    makes my PH in reactor fluctuate between 6.73 and 7.2 (seems like a lot?) Apex set to shut off at 6.5

    PH Probe was brand new 3 months ago and calibrated using 4.0 and 7.0 then recently verified with Borax and was off by .11 which seems close enough.

     

    Issue:

     

    Alk and Calc won't stabilize. Started at Alk 10 and Calc 425. Ran autodoser with reactor for a few days and then turned off autodoser. 3 days later alk is at 6 and calc at 375. (tested with Salifert and Seachem) I have to keep adding 2 part to bring back up. Then 2 days later falls back down. Tank uses 144 ml a day and I don't see any precipitation occuring... Adding ESV 2 part with autodoser over 24 hrs to avoid PH spike.

     

    Open to suggestions...

     

    Would it be wise to run Kalk in tandem?

    Is PH to high for the media?

    Helpful to add on a secondary chamber?

    Anyone have a Masterflex pump for sale?

  7. Thanks for the replies. Aquarium is currently 7' 160 gallon. Future (few years probably) it will be a 8' 300 gln with the 160 as the sump. It will rest on the outside corner wall of a two story, running perpendicular. The joists are 2" by 8" at 18" on center. The entire foundation has been reinforced about 8' off the outside with 2 "sistered 2 x 8's", resting on a concrete footer with cinder blocks. yvatupe9.jpg5yrera6e.jpgzy4aqu8u.jpg hope the pics come out right..

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. Have u factory reset the controller? There could be some code using the probes I suppose. As far as calibration...if I recall correctly the temp probe should just be putting it in fluid that u know the temp of and entering that temp then save. The pH probe is a little different animal. U have to wait like 3 to 5 minutes it seems until the numbers stabilize to the most part. They will still bounce a little but become a tighter range. After doing that in both the 7 and 10 put them back in to verify.

    I might not be the best person to help but I don't mind trying, lol.

  9. DA has two types of temperature probes: 1 is the "i" temp probe, which is native to the RKL, and I believe uses an RJ11 connector. The other is a regular temp probe that connects with a molex connector and works with the expansion modules (SL1/SL2v2).

     

    The RKL automatically searches for an "i" temp probe reading and if there is not one connected it displays an error. I can't say that nothing is wrong, but, if you are getting a temp reading then I would just disregard the error. The only way I know to remove the error is to plug in an "itemp" probe.

     

    Hope that is clear, It's been a while since I messed around with DA's controller.

  10. You may be thinking about anti sync? Interesting that yours ran backward before. I usually put mine in slow mode when I feed in the a.m. This morning I turned them off. I wonder if when the feed mode ended the pump started backward? Like yours did after the power outage. I guess DC pumps are vulnerable to that as well. I know the Korallias where notorious for it. Thanks

  11. I actually think it was sucked in and then in the process of being blown out perhaps?

     

    real bummer when something like that happens

    What makes me question that is when he unplugged the pump the LTA "just fell off". I won't be home until after 9 p.m. tonight and I'm going to test the pump out.

     

    Yeah, it is a real bummer, I just sold my RBTA's also...

  12. I receive this from my boy at home...

     

    ED97B05A-A24F-43AE-9A10-157A4325B4A8-111

     

    That thing in the middle of my MP40 "was" my Long Tip Anemone. How did that happen? With over 2000 gph leaving the powerhead it doesn't seem likely that anything would get "pulled" in. This is the entire reason that I keep the covers on the wetside - so this wouldn't happen...grrrr. I know the Korallia's have been known to run in reverse, but, I always thought that was because of them being AC Current. I have never read about a Vortech running in reverse. Is that possible?

  13. Only algae in the tank right now. I don't remember seeing bubbles on it like the photo implies. I have had Cyano before and this isn't like the type I've had before.

     

    5F52121A-3E8F-4EBA-841E-CFD7D95CFF73-318

     

    Kinda looks like this from reefcleaners website, except more purple.

     

    cottoncandyalgae_300x225.jpg

    I have a longspined urchin and red legged hermits in the tank. They don't appear to be touching it.

     

    I'm not real worried about it, pretty sure it will disappear as soon as I get the Phos back under control. Just curious if anyone has seen it before and knew what type it is.

     

    Thanks

  14. Not sure how long he's been around. I just recently found him. The stock fluctuates a lot on his website. It was kinda low last week then Thursday and Friday he added a couple hundred wysiwyg. All the prices are the same as far as I know. His "shop" is in his garage and its what he does for a living, real nice place though. Didn't see many sps - a few - chalice, milli, monti. I think he posts most of what he has online, one of his raceways was mostly for grow out, other two seemed like stock. I was looking for zoas and mushrooms and he had a ton of those.

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