kmoniaci Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Here is my first draft of the sump I'm planning for my 75gallon. Sorry it's a hand drawing - I can't figure out how to draw anything on the computer and be able to measure. I wanted to draw to scale, so I did it by hand. This is my first sump, so please tell me what you think. The overall measurements are 36 x 16 x 16. My skimmer needs to sit in 7" - 10" of water, so I'm planning the water level in the skimmer section at 8". The footprint is roughly 7.5" x 9.5" (numbers overestimated to play it safe) I am questioning the bubble trap that goes from the refugium to the return - is it overkill? There is going to be a bit of distance between the water height in the fuge to the water height in the return. Even though it's low flow, is that waterfall going to create bubbles, therefore negating the bubble trap? Would it be better to do something like a bulkhead/pipe like in this image from Melev's reef? http://www.melevsreef.com/plumbing/mag_pump_control.jpg Also, in double checking my drawing, I realize I added an extra inch in there. (there may have been some beverages involved when I made the drawing) So the fuge will be 12" wide. Not 13" Thanks in advance everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
romeo1234_00 Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 You can have my cheato 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recliner Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Why not have the return in the 3rd section so you don't need to mess with "T"ing off the return back into the refugium? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesterisdead Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 hey Kathleen if you're doing acrylic something based off of the 40 breeder footprints let me know I got some pre cut battles that you can look at that I'm not using now I'll sell them to you at cost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmoniaci Posted November 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 hey Kathleen if you're doing acrylic something based off of the 40 breeder footprints let me know I got some pre cut battles that you can look at that I'm not using now I'll sell them to you at cost I just looked up the 40 breeder dimensions and the footprint is 36 x 18. I don't have 18" wide in my stand My sump footprint is 36 x 16. Thanks for the offer Leonard, much appreciated! Why not have the return in the 3rd section so you don't need to mess with "T"ing off the return back into the refugium? Recliner - I want to have low flow to the refugium, which is why I have the return line T'd off with a ball valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Looks great! The tee of return is the way I'd do it so you can have lower flow as well as skimmed water so you're refugium does not collect detritus. Sent from my Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesterisdead Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 For my sump I plan on putting ball or gate valves on my drain as well as my return. My return is going to power my reactors so I'll be looking for a new external return pump here in the next few weeks. Also, I see more and more with power outage issues the need to put check valves on the drain(?) lines as well to prevent over flow. I need to get two of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 For my sump I plan on putting ball or gate valves on my drain as well as my return. My return is going to power my reactors so I'll be looking for a new external return pump here in the next few weeks. Also, I see more and more with power outage issues the need to put check valves on the drain(?) lines as well to prevent over flow. I need to get two of those. Not the drain line, some use on return. I'm not a fan of check valves because they gunk up and fail. You're better off building the sump to take the amount of overflow you'll have. Sent from my Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmoniaci Posted November 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Wait a minute, you definitely want a check valve on the return line to prevent back siphon when the pump is off, right? Also, I was looking on Melev's reef some more, and I think I could do away with the triple baffle for the fuge ---> return section. He's got sumps where the fuge just has one baffle with teeth at the top. That way I can get two more inches of space dedicated to the refugium Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin1300 Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 This is first time looking at this on computer (Thanks strep throat...), gotta say I love the drawing:) Agree that you can ditch the two extra baffles on the refuge. As for the check valve, I don't ever recommend them....They get dirty with worms, calcium carbonate, etc and then don't do any good. I think you're better off using a sort of siphon break on the return that sucks in air and breaks the siphon. Just my opinion but think check valves are junk:) If you choose to go that route, the swiss check valves are the best. They can be completely tour down to give a good cleaning. http://premiumaquatics.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PA&Product_Code=WYE010&Category_Code= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmoniaci Posted November 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Thanks for the compliment on the drawing. I was hoping someone would say something - I started drawing swirlies to represent the macro algae, then my inner child came out and they became happy faces, and then it got a little out of hand. I hoped it would amuse more than just me. And speaking of the fuge - 1" teeth on the baffle and 3" from the water line to the top of the sump are good measurements? Cause I just made those numbers up. Thanks for the tip on check valves. Drilling a siphon break hole is much cheaper! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmoniaci Posted November 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Also Dustin, I forgot to mention sorry to hear about the strep Hope you're feeling better soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratfink Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 What thickness acrylic are you planning on using for the fuge bulkhead? The reason I ask is stress/strain on the bulkhead trying to retain all the water in the return pump section. Look at the picture in the link in your first post for what I am talking about, see how the fuge section bulkhead is bowing out... Bad engineering there. I would bond a right angle strip section along that top edge of that bulkhead to add some strength to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scalare102079 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 based on what I am seeing, looks like your return pump area will be roughly 10"x16"x8" (lxwxh) or roughly 5.5 gallons.... that area seems small to me. you might find yourself topping off the system very often.....may want to look to increase that area some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke33 Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 based on what I am seeing, looks like your return pump area will be roughly 10"x16"x8" (lxwxh) or roughly 5.5 gallons.... that area seems small to me. you might find yourself topping off the system very often.....may want to look to increase that area some. Or just get an ATO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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