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lrood

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Everything posted by lrood

  1. Will miss it after all.... Dinner event conflicting.
  2. I've found cracked casing on power heads that were still working, but had rust stains showing. I suspect it is far from good for the water. I try to check them over pretty good when I have them out for cleaning, but sometimes it's a few months between cleanings. No wonder my chaeto (and hair algae) grows great.
  3. I think this is the one. A good read. The opening paragraph calls it a spectacularly ugly fish! http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/9/fish
  4. Jeremy at MA just ask me if I had heard of this behavior, but this was news to me. I've seen these on one of the breeders websites, but haven't come across them at a LFS. Knock on wood, I haven't (yet) had an aiptapsia problem, but I think this would be my choice. Edit - here's the link to the breeders journal http://www.mbisite.org/Forums/tm.aspx?m=88611
  5. Will it have a flat top ( plywood)? If you could frame a temporary lip around the top, a thin layer of self-leveling cement should work. I think it's important to do final leveling in the location it will be set up. Styrofoam or felt under the tank can also correct small gaps. Hopefully others will chime in with additional suggestions.
  6. Daniel, I won't be getting any. They look better as juveniles, and imo are just a muddy color as adults. That and the bad attitude make them a deal breaker for me. And I've also read that they can be hard to get to pair up too. If I get over there I'll try to grab a photo for you. I would rather raise some latz as they are more visually appealing to me, but again can't really dedicate another tank at this time. John, is the cap clown the leucokranos (white cap)? I didn't see those.
  7. I was at the NW side Uncle Bills yesterday & saw some tiny (approx 2cm) clownfish listed as McCullock's at $54.99 apiece. I never had the chance to track down anyone to check on their pedigree. I know DFS did raise some, and also shipped eggs to ORA to raise as well, but these were pretty limited numbers. I remember when DFS listed a pair for $6000 not too many years ago! Has anyone else seen these, or know where they were sourced?
  8. Grandson's birthday party at the same time..... count me out
  9. Do you ever use targeted treatment, ie medication soaked foods? I have no experience with these, but thought I'd ask.
  10. Great info! I think I'm going to print this out & keep it in my permanent reference folder in the fish room. And ditto on the fact about kill off of established bacteria when treating in QT. The meds don't care about beneficial vs evil. I have always just used a bare tank with PVC or other simple plastic decor.
  11. My mistake in listing my setup above, I don't dose carbon. That should read charcoal/ Phosguard.
  12. Sedgro (indmas screen name) had one for many years - not certain if he still has it though.
  13. And to the point of the thread: Old Coralife 220, in sump Chose it mainly by availability (a friend was selling it at a good price) Main tank - 125 gallons. (sump is 75 gallons, and another 10 gallon frag/growout tank is plumbed in, both containing fish) Bioload - total of 16 fish in system (only 1 hungry yellow tang) Carbon/Phosguard combo (Seachem's Seagel) run continuously in Phosban reactor Seems to pull nice dark skimmate, I've been using it for about 5 years, and have talked about upgrading for the same length of time! Overall my tank seems pretty happy, great coral growth, and fish are healthy, spawning, etc.
  14. Luke, Interesting point you make - is there any way to choose a skimmer for a particular size tank by the diameter of skimmer neck? I've never really thought about that, but it makes good sense.
  15. Maybe a monastrea species? My book says they can look a lot like zoas.
  16. Wasn't there a DIY skimmer design on RC years back using an Instant Ocean bucket, a brewer's funnel as the cone, etc?
  17. Glad it's improving finally. I'd be surprised if this turns out to be mycobacterium - those infections are usually much more insidious, and usually not as painful. Unfortunately it takes up to 6 weeks for cultures to grow so it's sometimes better just to empirically treat for it rather than wait for culture results! Staph, strep, vibrio, aeromonas, are much faster acting and very painful, but also improve faster with proper treatment. If it is mycobacterium marinum, expect to be on antibiotics for a long time (just like treating TB). All this said, I'm as bad as everyone about my hands in my tank! And I have a bunch of gloves right there....
  18. Scribbled angel, and goldflake angel are a couple I would love to have, but my tank is too small. Have to settle for my coral beauties! Another favorite I don't yet have is the tailspot blenny.
  19. lrood

    Where to go

    Beaches in Turks & Caicos is a family resort, lots of kids. Also does destination weddings, etc. We actually stayed a a different location about a half mile down the beach. There are a lot of great resorts there. Ours was not all inclusive, thus my tab for drinks for the week might have paid for Dustin's tank!
  20. Looks like it could be a felon, with lymphangiits into the wrist. Any wound in the fingertips can extend into the pulp space of the pads, and often need to be drained (usually turns out to be a staph infection). Most of the marine bacterial infections don't extend that quickly (except some vibrio species). This doesn't sound like problem from zoas/palys. Paly toxin causes systemic symptoms due to poisoning at the cellular level, multi organ failure, etc, and kills you that way. Most of the simple envenomations can be treated with the ammonia and/or hot water bath as per Old Salt's recent post. I'm not surprised the medcheck wasn't very helpful. I'm sure their experience with marine related envenomations/infections is nil. That said, it's still possible this is not related to an aquarium injury, and just coincidental timing. Hope for all the best for you. Keep us updated Tim. ps - I've often thought about running a survey of aquarists about these types of injuries/illnesses and write it up. Many people have no idea of the level of potentially poisonous & injurious things that are in our tanks, let alone all the associated chemicals & additives we have stored in our fish rooms!
  21. Wow, that's painful! Knock on wood, I've never had a shipping delay problem like that.
  22. lrood

    Where to go

    Went to Turks & Caicos last year, some of the bluest clear water I've ever seen. They reportedly have the 3rd largest barrier reef (at Provedenciales) in the world. The Beaches Resort there is all-inclusive, and there is a small reef about 30 yards offshore right beside them. The whole industry involves snorkeling/diving, conch collecting (they actually have a huge conch mariculture facility). And one of the safest places I felt I've traveled to.
  23. In my email yesterday from Reefcleaners - good for a month. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ It has been awhile since your last order with us, and we would like to offer you the following discount should you feel now is s good time to replenish your clean up crew. The Coupon code is: reefclub It is worth 10% off of your order, and is good for at least 30 days. However, it cannot be used to discount rock orders though unfortunately. Thanks again for the support, hope things are going well! All the Best, John Maloney www.reefcleaners.org If you no longer wish to receive email communications from us, unsubscribe here
  24. Most of the harpacticoid pods that mandarins feed on (like Tisbe & tigriopes) can actually be fed finely crushed flake food as they are primarily "bottom-feeders". . I only feed live phyto to my calanoid pods which stay and feed in the water column. I never add live phyto to my main tank - I doubt it remains in there long enough for coral or pods (which are mainly on the rocks & sandbed) to eat before being removed by the skimmer. Probably an unnecessary nitrogen load for the tank. Another option: check out the mandarin diner on Melevs Reef. and like Amanda said, pod culturing really isn't time consuming.
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